Colonial Williamsburg Digital Library

1.

INTRODUCTION

The excavations for the current season have been on a rather large scale and practically mark the completion of such work at Williamsburg as far as the important monuments are concerned. The excavation of the Governor's Palace itself has been completed and the out-buildings and gardens are to a large extent uncovered; the work on the cemetery is practically finished and the area is being filled-in; the out-buildings at Raleigh Tavern have been excavated and a number of minor foundations have either been excavated or examined.

The excavations were, in every way, most successful. Not only were the foundation walls of the various buildings exceptionally well preserved but a great quantity of material relating to Colonial domestic life was discovered in the process.

Aside from a large number of architectural fragments, all more or less well preserved, there are some fifty boxes of miscellaneous finds, including numerous objects of metal and a great quantity of china and glass. The Restoration Museum, which is now of no little importance, is discussed at the end of this report.

The sites which were excavated, examined or both during the current season are the following:

Excavated:

• 1-The Governor's Palace Area, including^includes, aside from the Palace itself, the out-houses and gardens, and the extensive areas across the streets to the East and West of the Palace.
• 2-Cemetery.
• 3-Raleigh Tavern Out-buildings.
• 2.
• 4-Front Steps of the Neal House
• 5-Front Steps of the Van Garrett House
• 6-Small shop to the East of the Restoration House

Examined and filled-in:

• 7-Foundations of a House to the East of the Paradise House.
• 8-Fist Theatre and the Laundry. (Ex-Coleman Property).

Examined:

• 9- Well at the Northeast corner of the Duke of Gloucester and Henry Streets.
• 10- Red Lion Inn.

3.

1-THE GOVERNOR'S PALACE.
OUT-BUILDINGS AND GARDENS.

^{Examinations Begun}

This excavation has been an exceptionally rich one and will probably remain the outstanding one, not only from the standpoint of the fine preservation of the walls themselves but from the number of architectural fragments and great quantity of museum objects that have been recovered. Work began on June 30th ¹⁹³⁰ and has continued without interruption. Trial trenches were run at various points and almost immediately the open brick drain running North and South, close to and parallel with the West outside wall of the Palace was discovered. Other walls soon appeared and these began to conform to the Jefferson plan which thereafter greatly facilitated the work. The whole of the basement was filled with brick-bats and debris with a thin surface covering of earth. Excavation in this instance consisted not in the usual digging from above but instead in sinking a shaft to the floor level and shoveling out the debris from the bottom. The loose fill fell rapidly away from the walls themselves, exposing them quite in-tact. Obviously, the structure collapsed upon itself practically filling the whole of the basement with they bricks of the walls of the superstructure. The East front chimney fell to the South, its recumbent position being easy to identify owing to the long line of soot deposited when it split asunder. The ruin of the Palace served for some years as a brick quarry and in time the site became a public dump. When the Matty School was built, the substantial front wall of the Palace was utilized as the foundation for its rear wall. At this time, most likely, the dump was covered over with earth and the area was leveled off and possibly planted with grass as a playground behind the school. All vestiges of the Palace were lost and in time its exact 4. location was forgotten.

^{The Mathew Whaley School}

The work was held back to some extent by the demolition of the Mattey School. Its rear wall not only rested on the front wall of the Palace but it was occupying the area in front of the Palace almost up to the line where the fore-court should be. The School was not demolished until it had been thoroughly photographed (by Holmes) and had been measured. Many bricks from the Governor's Palace had been used in the walls and these have been salvaged, cleaned and stacked along with the large number of other bricks coming from the ruins of the Palace itself. The cutting down of four large locust trees and three small elm trees, all growing within the walls of the Palace or upon the walls themselves, and the removal of their stumps which had engaged themselves with the walls, assisted in retarding the work.

^{Condition of Foundations}

The foundations of the Palace are very well-preserved and practically intact save in places where bricks were carried away subsequent to its destruction. Owing however to the symmetrical plan, where one portion is lacking, its counterpart fortunately remains leaving little question about any part of the plan of the basement. The walls are fine specimens of brickwork and the floor is paved with flagstone and in certain instances with brick; only one room seems not to have been paved. The vaults of the wine-cellars remain in part along with many other interesting details. O the whole, the foundations present a striking picture.

OFFICE AND GUARDHOUSE

The two subsidiary buildings, the Guard-house and the Office, which stood at the east and west sides of the Palace have been located as lying directly under the two respective streets.

5.

OUTHOUSES AT REAR AND STABLE

The two Out-houses at the rear of the Palace, shown on the copper engraving, are at present time being sought for. The foundations of the Stable to the north of the cemetery are partially uncovered; the building appears to have been large and substantially built, the principal wall being five feet in thickness.

ICE-HOUSE

Still further to the north is the so-called Governor's Ice-House, which it may very well be. It is an interesting structure more or less egg shaped, with a total height of probably 20 to 25 feet. A few steps (which had wooden nosings) lead down to an arched entrance at a point about midway of the total height of the structure; a window admits light and ventilation. The lower portion of this structure converges to a well at the bottom and a reveal in the brick flooring indicates that a grill or floor must have covered the well. The well has been excavated down to the point where its brick lining ceases, a depth of probably five feet. The structure is not on Restoration property and therefore it has been merely cleaned; a door with a lock has been put on and the window has been blocked.

Those who have seen this structure and who are qualified to speak pronounce it an ice-house, despite the fact it is not altogether typical of contemporary ice-houses in Virginia. However, it could serve this purpose since the ice to be had in Colonial times was of small dimensions and thin, and the procedure was to stack the ice on end around the sloping walls of such a structure, whereby coagulation would take place; the window would serve for ventilation and the well would carry off the water. Protection from the sun was assured by covering the structure with a mound of earth end in the present instance by planting trees over it.

6.

GARDENS

The Terraces of the gardens of the Governor's Palace remains today, sloping away to the west. The remains of brick steps occur at one point leading down to possible a reservoir; since these steps occur at intervals it is likely that they were connected by ramps. Certain walls discovered have not yet been identified. A line of cedar posts in the garden area directly west are probably the remains of a fence. A literary reference mentions cedar posts in connection with the Governor's Palace.

AREAS TO THE EAST AND WEST OF THE PALACE INCLUDING DRAIN OR POSSIBLE PASSAGE FOR ESCAPE.

A number of walls in both areas have come to light and although the excavations are not completed the foundations of several small buildings are obvious enough. An interesting drainage system occurs at this point which connects with the Palace itself. In the southeast corner of the basement of the Palace is a vaulted brick drain three feet high and two feet wide (now under a later brick staircase) which leads directly, across the street to this area and out to a point about midway in the terraces. It seems unlikely that the basement of the Palace required a drain of this size and it may have had some purpose as an outlet for water. It could well have served as a passage for escape. The drain has no connection with the vaulted room in the basement of the offices of the Holding Corporation. This latter vault appears to be self contained and its brick wall to the north marks its limit; it projects some feet above the present grade level. Two holes were made in this wall; the upper one opened directly above the grade and the lower one admitted only to hardpan.

- - -

The remains of the Governor's Palace have been photographed 7. and archaeological drawings of the whole area are now being made; the plan of the Palace itself will soon be available.

^{Record Made of Foundations}

The various objects from the excavations of the Palace area at the present time fill twenty-seven large boxes. Each box bears a number which indicates the part of the Palace or of the area from which the objects came; and each object itself bears a number and is described under that number in the museum catalogue. All the objects found have considerable interest; those which seem of special importance may be listed as follows:

2-CEMETERY

The archaeological Report on the Cemetery, including the analysis by Doctor A. Hrdlicka with regard to its skeletal remains, has been handed to Mr. Harold R Shurtleff, of the Research Department to be incorporated in the Report on the Cemetery about to be released from that office; appended to the Archaeological Report was a Catalogue of the skeletons and the identification of each by Doctor Hrdlicka. Mr. Shurtleff was also handed a report on the investigation in the War Department, U. S. A. and in the Congressional Library, Washington, for information about the cemetery.

Although Doctor Hrdlicka was unable to date the cemetery from 9. the skeletal remains except to pronounce it as old, and not later than the Civil War, both the archaeological and the literary evidence are strongly in favor of the period of the Revolutionary War. The matter has been fully presented in the Archaeological Reports.

An exhaustive examination of the skeletons is still being made for further archaeological evidence. Meanwhile, each of the skeletons in the cemetery is being marked by a long, wooden peg which will project above ground when the cemetery is filled. The pegs on which numbers appear will indicate the sixty-six skeletons that have been studied and photographed; furthermore, each number corresponds to a sack in the museum which contains the objects found with the skeleton. At some future time, these pegs can be replaced with suitable markers and enclosed by an appropriate fence. A high wooden fence now surrounds the area and the place is under constant guard.

Photographs of the most preserved or more interesting skeletons have been made. In each instance, the objects which were found with the skeletons, such as buttons, nails, etc. were place on a piece of white card-board and put beside the skeleton when the photograph was taken. For the present, these photographs are being included in the Governor's Palace collection for it is likely that the cemetery represents a chapter in the history of that building.

3-RALEIGH TAVERN OUT-BUILDINGS

The whole area surrounding the Tavern has been explored by trial trenches. The foundations of the three structures, demolished at the time the Restoration began have been examined. The foundation of the old building in the "L" of the Tavern, excavated sometime ago, are being cleaned and re-studied. According to Col. Lane, former 10. owner of the property, this building was a kitchen. Close by two old wells have been discovered and are being cleaned out and the earth sifted.

The foundations of three other old buildings, hitherto unknown, have recently been found. The first is in the northwest corner of the area nearest Nicholson Street. The second is west of the present new kitchen of the Tavern, its west wall lying directly on the property line; the third, a long structure, extending north and south, its east wall about six feet from the Tavern. The Research Department has considerable information about this third building.

The various objects which have been found in the course of the excavations, including pipe bowls, bottles and fragments of china and glass have all been catalogued and placed in the Museum.

A Preliminary Report along with a plan was sent out on September 8th; the work is still in progress and a Final Report will be forthcoming in the near future.

4. FRONT STEPS OF THE NEAL HOUSE

These steps, now covered over by ones of the Restoration, were not on center with the front doorway of the house as it now stands. They would seem to have belonged to an earlier doorway of this house or more likely to a still earlier building. The steps were excavated and a measured drawing was sent to Mr. Macomber, Williamsburg.

5. FRONT STEPS OF THE VAN GARRETT HOUSE

These steps which are under a later porch now in process of restoration are probably the original ones. They were excavated and a measured drawing was sent to Mr. Geddes, Williamsburg.

11.

6. SMALL SHOP TO THE EAST OF THE RESTORATION HOUSE:

Excavations were made around the shop and it was found that the foundation on the front and two sides was old; the rear wall of the foundation is lacking. A measured drawing was made and a report was prepared from all the available documents in the Archaeological Research Department; these were sent to Mr. Geddes, Williamsburg.

7. FOUNDATIONS OF A HOUSE TO THE EAST OF THE PARADISE HOUSE:

This site had been excavated by Mr. Mayall (Landscape Department) and it was thought advisable to refill the area until some future time. Mr. Bullock examined the walls and the results of his findings are marked on a blueprint now in the files; these were checked by the archaeologist and Mr. Bullock's findings were in agreement with his own views. Certain details however such as the stairs on the west side near the front, should be re-studied before the building is restored.

In refilling this area all the earth was screened twice, first through a two-inch mesh and then through a one-inch mesh. The result showed clearly the importance of screening all earth that is excavated for the objects from the comparatively small area fill seven large boxes. For the most part the objects consist of fragments of china, glass and metal work. These have been place in the Museum after having been catalogued.

Among the objects found the following are of chief archaeological importance:

Bowl of white clay pipe bearing in relief the British coat-of-arms; very fine example.

Small coin, apparently British, words and date nearly obliterated, about the size of old U.S. 3-cent piece.

12.

American one-cent piece; dated 1831.

American five-cent piece; dated 1869.

Brass button bearing the initials N.H.D.V.S. (National Home Disabled Volunteer Soldiers).

Fragments of white china, bearing the maker's Mark, "Iron Stone China-Powell and Bishop, England."

Fragments of brown and white china, bearing part of a picture and the legend, "E. Jun-r."

Fragment of a white china plaque, across the top of which is a ½" scale in black; a design of some kind occupied the lower portion. The object would seem to have been an apothecary's palette on which he mixed his powders, separating enough in accordance with the seals above to go into one paper.

In re-filling the area all the walls were covered with heavy building paper and only sifted earth was put back, making re-excavation at some future time a comparatively easy matter.

Since an apothecary's palette was found among the objects and the old Apothecary Shop is next door, it is possible that he lived in this house.

8. SITE OF THE FIRST THEATRE AND LAUNDRY BUILDING:
(ex-Coleman property)

This area had been excavated by Mr. Mayall (Landscape Department). What could be the foundation of the First Theatre had been exposed but a large and handsome tree growing in the midst of the remains made an understanding of the plan impossible. The foundations as they lay, rather meager on the whole, scarcely indicated a building that could have been used as a theatre however small it may have been. Excavation immediately to the rear and away from the street was hindered by the fact that the dump of fair size, 13. had been placed there. Excavations were made behind the dump but no walls were found; it would seem that the foundations stopped somewhere under the dump, a comparatively short distance. The tree marks the spot where excavation is necessary in order to fully understand the significance of the remains yet it is doubtful whether the site can be fully excavated without killing this beautiful specimen.

The Laundry Building, lying immediately to the south of the above mentioned site, had also been excavated by Mr. Mayall. Certain foundations had been exposed but further excavations were impossible, owing to the grape-vines growing over the area, in fact the excavated portions consisted of trenches between the vines. Since no further excavation could be done without removing the vines the Landscape Department undertook to have this done but withhold any action on hearing that Mr. Coleman was about to return. He has now been consulted in the matter and the grape-vines will be moved; excavation will begin within a short time.

A number of trenches were dug over much of the area of the property, but no walls were found. Those trenches have been filled along with the area of the first theatre site; in the latter instance definite action must be taken about the tree before excavation can be continued.

It is possible that the actual site of the First Theatre lies somewhere near at hand and is not represented by the foundations referred to above. The present garage stands in the way of further excavation to the east, though trial trenches could be dug around the sides.

The objects found in these excavations and in the dump have been 14. catalogued and placed in the Museum.

9. WELL AT THE N. E. CORNER, DUKE OF GLOUCESTER AMD HENRY STREETS

The well was examined and found to be old and, in itself, of archaeological importance. The brick-work is well done and the general form agreeable. It is of considerable depth and at the present time contains water. A report was sent to Mr. Geddes, Williamsburg.

10. RED LION INN.

The foundations of the Donnegan House were examined and the excavations both under the house and at the east side of the house, made some time ago by the Landscape Department, were noted. The house itself stands in the way of further excavations. Upon examination of the Bryhn House it was found that excavations under the house are impossible. The cellar is practically in total darkness and furthermore it is being used as a store-room by the family now living in the house. In the back yard, however, out-croppings of old brick were found. The excavation of these site would be hindered considerably by the houses. A report was sent to Mr. Shaw, Boston.

RESTORATION MUSEUM.

The Museum has been temporarily established in the lower floor of the school-house, and the objects all over town which have been excavated in the past are being collected. The first two rooms on either side of the entrance hall have been arranged as show rooms as well as two rooms directly to the rear. Around the walls and beneath the windows of four rooms, broad sloping tables have been built and covered with white oil-cloth for the display of the objects while the spaces left by the blackboards have been covered with a 15. brown burlap.

Under each section of the table upon which the objects are displayed is the box in which they belong and in which they were placed in the excavation itself. The box bears a number which represents the excavation in which the objects were discovered. Furthermore, each object bears the number of the box in which it belongs as well as its special index number; and under their index numbers each object is fully described in the museum catalogue.

Certain sections of the museum have been given over to the Wren Building, Capitol, Governor's Palace, and Raleigh Tavern. The rear portion of the school-house is used as the working quarters where the finds from the excavations are brought in, studied and catalogued. It is primarily a field museum and no formality is attempted, nor is the museum open to visitors, except those with permits.